The main anchorage is on the south side of the cay and offers no protection from the south or the west, so our plan was to arrive there while the wind was clocking from west to north. There is an anchorage on the north side of the cay that we want to check out, but the guide books warn that you have to weave your way around numerous reefs to get in and out. The problem is the wind almost always shifts at night. We plan to check out the north side sometime in the future.
We finally had a mild forecast providing a couple days of settled weather. The next front was supposed to be mild--light and variable, so we headed south into the swell and light winds. We rounded Sandy Point and made our way to the anchorage with no other sailboats around. The bay is beautiful. Not long after we anchored the sailboat Mojo showed up. They also came from Conception, but sailed around the east side of Rum before entering from the south.
That evening Lisa and I walked the town trying to get some leg exercise, with the plan of spear fishing on the reefs the following day. The wind had moved north right on cue and the anchorage was comfortable. When we checked weather again the following morning, the forecast had changed calling for increased winds from the south and west.
Reluctantly, we weighed anchor and headed for Callabash Bay on the northwestern side of Long Island. We would stay there for the night, and then make our way to Thompson Bay (further south on the west side of Long Island) which offers decent protection.
Callabash Bay is stunning. It has the best underwater sand we have seen yet, with no grass at all. Our preference would have been to stay there for a while, but the forecast was calling for 9 foot ocean swells from the northeast. These would wrap around into Callabash making it very uncomfortable at best. So we swam and enjoyed the water that afternoon, wishing we could stay and explore the area further.
The following day we made our way to Thompson Bay. It was a bash the whole way into wind and seas. The route was on the banks so the water was shallow--scary shallow in a couple of spots.
The anchorages at Thompson Bay are a bit shallower than we like, but it all worked out well. While there we were able to go on a long walk and do laundry.
Most of the churches have a cemetery surrounding the church.
It was time to make our way back to the US of A. We weighed anchor at 12:35 pm on Wednesday with the plan to sail overnight and anchor the following evening on the western side of Current Island. The reason for leaving at noonish was to sail the Exuma Sound at night and arrive on the banks near Eleuthera at dawn. This all worked out well, although we could have left an hour or 2 earlier since we didn't reach the banks until 8:30 am. Lighter winds than expected.
While entering the banks, we caught this Black Grouper. Don't you wish you could do that with your jaw?
While entering the banks, we caught this Black Grouper. Don't you wish you could do that with your jaw?
Lisa Gaddafi preparing to address the United Nations.
Yo Lisa! It's your turn to take the hook out--I got next. In addition to this 4 foot Great Barracuda and the Black Grouper, we also caught a Cero.
After motorsailing the banks most of the day Thursday, we made it through Current Cut to the west side of Current Island and had the anchor down shortly before 5:30 pm.
By 5:30 am Friday, we had the anchor up and were headed for Fish Market Cay in the Berrys. This route took us between the Abacos and Nassau on the Northeast Province Channel. At one point, when Lisa was below, I steered toward some birds that were feeding on some fish and promptly hooked a Skip Jack Tuna.
After rejecting our initial spot to anchor, we settled on our second choice right next to another pretty beach. You can see the ocean on the other side of the beach.
The anchor was down at 3:10 pm. Our plan was to stay a day to rest up, clean some of the bottom of the boat, maybe spear fish.
It was kind of cold, but after anchoring, I dove on the anchor, then took the pole spear to look for fish. I was a bit nervous because there were a lot of grass patches around which makes bad boys harder to see. I came upon a small group of decent size Bar Jacks when I heard Lisa yelling at me to get back to the boat. I was pretty certain that meant shark so I left the jacks alone and tried to act casual on my way back to the mother ship. Lisa insisted the shark was following me at a distance, so I got out of the water. Pablo is scardo of sharkos. I normally try to be out of the water by 4 pm, and it was about quarter till. I guess he was on daylight savings time as well. We watched him prowl around the rest of the afternoon and evening and he kept coming back to the boat. He looked very territorial--so no spear fishing the following day.
We debated which route to take to Lake Worth--over the banks or the Northwest Channel north of the Berrys. We decided the conditions were right for the northern route which also would save us about 35 miles. We knew we would see more shipping on this route but we had no idea...
Not wanting to arrive at Lake Worth before dawn, we weighed anchor at 10:35 am. We sailed out of our anchorage and around the northern part of the Berry Island Chain. There were 2 cruise ships anchored at Big Stirrup Cay (aka Coco Cay) as we passed. Had we come that close to an anchored cruise ship in the US we would be in the callaboose with our boat up for government auction.
We were hoping to sail the whole way, but after bobbing along at 3+ knots for a while we cranked the engine. Not long after the sun went down we constantly had around 18 ships within a 9 mile radius. They were like sand on a beach, pebbles in a brook, acne on a teenager...We are thankful for radar. And no, I don't think we will go this route again. We ended up logging an extra 7 nautical miles dodging the big boys.
The shipping traffic finally started to thin out at around 2:30 in the morning. Lisa and I had just finished going over potential problems, I had turned to head below for a nap, and Lisa lets out this bloodcurdling scream. I turned back around, and she was still on the boat--but she had company. Then she proceeds to explain how hard the flying fish hit her before it landed in the cockpit (after arriving in Kindle range, Lisa informs me that flying fish can fly at 43 mph).
The crossing was lumpy, rolly and uncomfortable with the wind on the stern. But it was uneventful once we left the many ships behind. We arrived at Palm Beach and had the anchor down at 12:45 pm.
By 5:30 am Friday, we had the anchor up and were headed for Fish Market Cay in the Berrys. This route took us between the Abacos and Nassau on the Northeast Province Channel. At one point, when Lisa was below, I steered toward some birds that were feeding on some fish and promptly hooked a Skip Jack Tuna.
After rejecting our initial spot to anchor, we settled on our second choice right next to another pretty beach. You can see the ocean on the other side of the beach.
The anchor was down at 3:10 pm. Our plan was to stay a day to rest up, clean some of the bottom of the boat, maybe spear fish.
It was kind of cold, but after anchoring, I dove on the anchor, then took the pole spear to look for fish. I was a bit nervous because there were a lot of grass patches around which makes bad boys harder to see. I came upon a small group of decent size Bar Jacks when I heard Lisa yelling at me to get back to the boat. I was pretty certain that meant shark so I left the jacks alone and tried to act casual on my way back to the mother ship. Lisa insisted the shark was following me at a distance, so I got out of the water. Pablo is scardo of sharkos. I normally try to be out of the water by 4 pm, and it was about quarter till. I guess he was on daylight savings time as well. We watched him prowl around the rest of the afternoon and evening and he kept coming back to the boat. He looked very territorial--so no spear fishing the following day.
We debated which route to take to Lake Worth--over the banks or the Northwest Channel north of the Berrys. We decided the conditions were right for the northern route which also would save us about 35 miles. We knew we would see more shipping on this route but we had no idea...
Not wanting to arrive at Lake Worth before dawn, we weighed anchor at 10:35 am. We sailed out of our anchorage and around the northern part of the Berry Island Chain. There were 2 cruise ships anchored at Big Stirrup Cay (aka Coco Cay) as we passed. Had we come that close to an anchored cruise ship in the US we would be in the callaboose with our boat up for government auction.
We were hoping to sail the whole way, but after bobbing along at 3+ knots for a while we cranked the engine. Not long after the sun went down we constantly had around 18 ships within a 9 mile radius. They were like sand on a beach, pebbles in a brook, acne on a teenager...We are thankful for radar. And no, I don't think we will go this route again. We ended up logging an extra 7 nautical miles dodging the big boys.
The shipping traffic finally started to thin out at around 2:30 in the morning. Lisa and I had just finished going over potential problems, I had turned to head below for a nap, and Lisa lets out this bloodcurdling scream. I turned back around, and she was still on the boat--but she had company. Then she proceeds to explain how hard the flying fish hit her before it landed in the cockpit (after arriving in Kindle range, Lisa informs me that flying fish can fly at 43 mph).
The crossing was lumpy, rolly and uncomfortable with the wind on the stern. But it was uneventful once we left the many ships behind. We arrived at Palm Beach and had the anchor down at 12:45 pm.
